First off, you need raw silk. I bought mine from Nappies Covered, and like everything i’ve bought from there, it hasn’t disappointed me.
The rougher, bumpier weave of raw silk-not exactly what you picture when you think ‘silky’! Nevertheless, it’s very soft and pliable. It does smell strangely, but not very strongly (and with its intended use, it really doesn’t matter!)
First up, draw your outlines onto the fabric. Mine are 28 x 8cm with nicely rounded edges. I don’t leave any seam allowance for overlocking, as I find it much easier and neater to overlock onto a cut edge when working with steep curves. You may prefer to shear 1cm or so off as you go-remember to allow for it.
Cut out to size.
Now for the edging. I’ve got it set to three-thread wide, with a short stitch length. Note the edge at precisely where the looper threads meet. I also drop the knife, so I don’t accidently chop something. If you want to stay all-natural, use silk or cotton thread.
As you come up to the corners, you need to have the edge of the fabric at the right width from the needle. This is why I cut to size and drop the knife-the knife is too far from the needle for tighter corners.
Overlap the stitching 1cm when you reach the beginning, lift the foot and needle and carefully lift the stitches from the machine. You can trim the thread ends left from the beginning of the stitching, and I knot the ones from the end and thread them through the loops.
Done! A nice neat edge that will prevent fraying for the life of the liner.
Care: To preserve the sericin and prevent shrinking, these must be handled carefully. Handwash gently in warm water with a small amount of mild detergent, and hang in the shade to dry. With proper care, they will last you many changes. If you accidently machine wash them, they will still act as a wicking liner-however, the amount of sericin will be greatly reduced, and so will the healing capabilities.
Don’t want to make them yourself? I usually have them in stock-please check my Etsy store, or contact me.